Joden Girl
Baubles, Bling, and A Collector’s Thing
Just a week or two ago, I vehemently declared that I absolutely did not want to see another white gold diamond ring. I had reached full saturation and simply could not lay eyes on another one; I certainly couldn’t dream of a single new thing to say. But that was then, and this is now. Luckily, the antique and estate jewelry business is ever-changing. We get fresh inventory every single day. Admittedly, most of it goes directly to the refinery. The pieces that we keep are truly special, like this darling little ring. I simply couldn’t pass it up.
Sweet as can be, this dainty ring was made from 18-karat white gold in the Art Deco era. Completely authentic and original, this ring contains on French-cut simulated sapphire in the center. Many people don’t know that manmade gemstones have been around since the late 1800’s. The first synthetic sapphire was produced using the flux method in 1873. Flux is a solid material; when melted, it dissolves other materials in the same way that way dissolves sugar. When the dissolved solution cools, synthetic crystals form. This method is time-consuming and requires quite a lot of patience. The results can take up to a year. However, when compared to the millions of years it takes a natural sapphire to form, one year is pretty darn quick!
At the turn of the twentieth century, synthetic stones were rapidly gaining popularity. Manufactured stones were perfect and much less expensive; jewelers believed that synthetic stones would surpass natural gems. Although they never did, that is why we see so many manmade colored stones in vintage jewelry like the one in this ring. The blue center is flanked by a matched pair of Old European Cut diamonds. Together, they have a weight of .70 carat. Three-stone rings have been popular for centuries; they offer timeless, classic appeal.
The synthetic sapphire center is just one Art Deco detail; others include milgrain beaded edges, filigree wire work and engraving. The mounting that houses the three stones is every bit as lovely as the stones themselves. The shoulders of the ring have been hand-engraved with a leaflike pattern that continues the entire way around the shank. The outer sides showcase a delicate filigree design that mimics the engraving. One final detail reveals interesting information… inside the ring is this hallmark “Belais 18K”. It refers to Belais Manufacturing Company who was one of the first manufacturers of white gold. In fact, their slogan was “Belais made means well made”. This ring, in excellent condition more than 100 years after it was made, is proof of that! Make it yours for just $1,275.00. ♥
“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”
Written by Carrie Martin
Photos by Dana Jerpe