Signature Series – Volume 22

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Quality Things

“Since 1854, we at Gübelin strongly believe that true luxury

lies in the uniting of inner beauty and deep knowledge.”

Partners Mauritz Breitschmid and Eduard Jakob Gübelin were jointly managing their growing watchmaker’s shop.  More than partners, these two men were not only master and apprentice but also father and son-in-law.  In their 170-year history, the House of Gübelin has always been a family business.  Even now, six generations later, the legacy continues with Raphael and his wife, Wilvy.

The iconic design house has always been motivated by three things: expertise, authenticity and inspiration.  Extensive training, education and deep passion guide every hand and heart of the experts at Gübelin.  Just as essential to the success of this Swiss House is authenticity.  They believe in doing everything the right way; they continue to celebrate the time-honored craft of fine jewelry making.  Anchoring both the expertise and authenticity of this legendary company is a deeply rooted sense of inspiration.  Each member of the Gübelin family is immensely passionate about making beautiful things.

A recent acquisition, this 18-karat yellow gold bracelet immediately caught my eye.  At a glance, it seems simple.  However, a closer inspection reveals the artistry that went into the making of this Mid Century Modern vision.  Measuring a fraction over seven inches, the piece flexes and moves beautifully.  Twenty-eight individual links comprise the length, alternately set with deep red rubies and blue-green turquoise.

Each gem-set link is artfully paired with a textured gold link.  Contoured and ribbed, these gold links stand in stark contrast to their bold colored-stone partners.  Trios of rubies and turquoise are enveloped with a border of twisted gold braid.  Ruby is the signature stone of the House of Gübelin.  Often associated with the romantic notions of love and passion, rubies are cleverly incorporated into each piece of precious jewelry.  Forty-two round rubies offer a combined weight of approximately 1.25 carats.  Balancing them out are forty-two cabochon turquoise.  Skillfully hidden into the bracelet is a box clasp; hand-etched onto the back of the clasp is a serial number and just one word – Gübelin.  

On the wrist, this bracelet is effortless.  It moves with the body and feels good on.  Classic elegance pairs with vintage flair; the vibe is timeless and chic.  The quality the House of Gübelin is synonymous with is evident in the wear-ability and weighty feel of the bracelet.  Today, in the era of fast fashion and throw-away culture, a true piece of heirloom-quality fine jewelry stands alone.  Moderately priced at $4500.00, it’s the latest addition to our estate department.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Too Suite – Volume Seven

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Matching Things

I am completely smitten with Mid Century Modern jewelry…  over the last few months, everything else has fallen by the wayside.  I love the bold and uninhibited lines.  I love the whimsical style and the vibrant colors.  Call it mid-century madness (I am almost fifty!); I simply cannot resist…  give me all the MCM jewels!

Whether you were donning a matching pencil skirt and crop-sleeved jacket or sporting your favorite pastel sweater twin-set – this latest suite was ideal accessory.  Although it was created in the 1950’s, it is still every bit as relevant today.  A bold pair, this brooch and matching earrings would look great pinned to a cape for fall or even mated with a classic leather jacket.  When jewelry is this good – it NEVER goes out of style.

Measuring 1.5 inches in any direction, this 14-karat yellow gold brooch adds the perfect touch of texture and shine to your fall wardrobe.  Taking the shape of an equal-armed cross or a plus sign, this gemmed pin features a dual-forked stem.  This is a mark of quality jewelry; the twin pin stems adds the support and stability needed to show this beauty off to it’s best advantage.  The four arms are gently contoured with a dimensional ribbed surface.  Sitting pretty in the center is an equally lovely amethyst.  

Emerald cut in shape, this rectangular stunner weighs approximately 8.00 carats and offers a delightful lavender hue.  Juxtaposed with the amethyst are four cabochon rubies; one is centered on each side of the amethyst.  These rubies have a combined weight of 1.00 carat.  Purple and red are an unusual color combination, but it’s perfect for fall!  This suite also offers earrings to wear with the brooch or even on their own for a more casual appeal.  Made in the same shape except smaller, these earrings feature a narrow wire that slides through the ear.

The Color of Edwardian

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and an Edwardian Ring

Often, the Edwardian Era is defined by the years between 1901-1910.  However, there is always a crossover period… a time when the style of one period influences and flows over into the next.  This is perhaps most evident in the years between Edwardian and Art Deco.  Many sources state that the Deco period began in 1919 and ended in 1939.  As you may have noticed, there is a nine year gap between the two eras.  Those years aren’t lost – it’s simply a time when Edwardian nuances developed into Art Deco ideals. 

Most of the jewelry from the very early 1900’s is monochromatic.  Made almost entirely of platinum and decorated with diamonds and pearls, this jewelry is predominantly white in color.  Marked by the reign of King Edward VII, the time was shaped by his laidback yet extravagant lifestyle.  Fashionable accessories were laden with bows, ribbons, floral garlands and everything romantic.  Tassels and lace provided inspiration for clothing ateliers and jewelers.  

I couldn’t resist the romantic allure of this delicate darling.  Platinum filigree creates a lovely metallic lace setting for this 1915 piece.  Surrounding the center of the ring is an ornate framework that culminates in a pair of stylized bows with long tails that cascade down the shoulders.  Classic Edwardian elements are evidenced by the tiny beaded edges, hand-engraved shank, and pierced cut-outs.  The epitome of elegance, this ring showcases everything that the Edwardian era is famous for.  

Fifty-two European cut diamonds cover the low-profile surface, bringing .75 carat of brilliant shimmer to the platinum setting.  All of this elaborate decor serves to highlight the bright center stone.  Nestled within the original bezel is one natural deep blue sapphire.  This cobalt-colored gem is round in shape and weighs approximately 1.15 carats.  It is relatively clean internally with just a few small marks on the surface.  The rich blue color is what makes the stone shine – with flashes of navy, this medium-blue sapphire is stunning.  However, it is interesting to note that it is not original to the ring.  Perhaps you remember me mentioning that Edwardian jewelry is often monochromatically white in color – that includes the metal and the gemstones.  It’s quite rare to have a colored center stone in an early 1900’s ring; more than likely, this beauty likely held a diamond when it was created.  

Shown on the hand, this Edwardian enchantress is quite an eyeful.  Currently measuring a finger size 7.75, this ring can be sized.  The latest addition to our website, it’s moderately priced at $3,350.00.  If you’ve been dreaming of the perfect antique sapphire and diamond ring, look no more.  

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

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