Pick of the Week – Volume 85

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Discounted Things

Over one hundred years ago, in November of 1922, the steps to King Tutankhamun’s tomb were discovered while excavating another tomb.  Those steps led to a fully intact, untouched treasure trove from 3000 years before.  The tomb itself was made up of four separate rooms, each one carefully explored and documented.  In February of the following year, the door to the fourth and final chamber was breeched.  Inside lay an extravagant sarcophagus with three coffins nested one inside the other.  The innermost coffin was made entirely of gold housed the mummified remains of King Tut himself.  The riches inside the tomb were vast including weaponry, jewelry, golden shrines, statues… although, the pristine mummified body was by far the most valuable. Today, the collection resides in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo; at the time, it inspired an architectural and design style known as Egyptian Revival. 

This brooch was part of that movement.  Created in the earlier part of the period, this brooch showcases both the Art Nouveau aesthetic and the Egyptian Revival flare.  Made from a solid 18-karat yellow gold frame, this brooch centers on a winged scarab.  A symbol of transformation, rebirth and immortality, this scarab appears to have been carved from soapstone.  Commonly used in the ancient Egyptian civilization, soapstone or steatite is often glazed with color as it is here.  Etched into the back of the scarab is a hieroglyphic; it’s the symbol for the word kheper.  This term refers to the scarab beetle itself and the concept of existence. 

 

The wings were expertly carved from gold, each one complete with a hammered texture with ribbed lines.  A beautiful patina has settled into the crevices between the feathers of the wings that only serves to enhance their appearance.  Wrapping three-quarters of the way around the scarab are a pair of serpents.  Mirrored cobras, these snakes have coiled their tails together – this symbolized the union of the two lands of Egypt and the pharaoh’s rule over a unified kingdom.  The length of each snake has been painstakingly chiseled with intersecting lines that form the scales.  This exceptional example is filled with ancient symbolism and antique appeal.  It’s been part of our collection for so long, I cannot remember where we acquired it.  Though its primary purpose is to be worn as a brooch, it does have a small pair of golden loops on the back where a chain could be attached, making an outstanding statement necklace.  

Perhaps you’ve caught the Egyptomania bug or maybe you’re a lover of the deep symbolism represented in Egyptian Revival jewelry… no matter the case, this piece is meant for you!  Previously available for $5,750.00, we are now offering it at the drastically reduced price of $3,850.00!  Take advantage of this deep discount today.  

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Pick of the Week – Volume 80

Joden Girl

Baubles and Bling with Unbelievable Pricing

The Grand Period was the final portion of the Victorian Era.  Preceded by Early and Mid-Victorian, the years between 1860-1885 celebrated the future by embracing styles of the past.  Revivalist jewelry was popular and included both Etruscan and Egyptian themes.  Inspired by these ancient civilizations and artifacts found by excavating their tombs, jewelers incorporated key aspects from those eras.  Etruscan revival showcased elaborate beaded gold work called granulation with gemstones.  Egyptian revival highlighted symbols such as scarabs, the Eye of Horus, and lotus flowers with accents of enamel and gemstones.

Hints of both civilizations are present in this authentic Victorian brooch.  Bezel set with a twisted rope accent is a cabochon oval garnet.  Shimmering with every shade of red from raspberry to merlot, this beautiful gem pops from within its golden frame.  Three additional twisted wires decorate the matte surface.  Bringing a secondary color to the piece is a row of small ovals.  Soldered to the surface, these metal frames are filled with white enamel using the cloisonné technique.  

Peep the glass locket on the back – called a hair receiver, this hidden feature was meant to preserve a locket of hair from a lost loved one.  This one has the original fabric still intact and appears to have never been used.  Wonderfully crafted, this authentic piece of Victorian jewelry has long been a treasured part of the Joden inventory.  Previously listed on our site for $3,900.00 – we are dropping the price in hopes of finding a new custodian for this beauty.  Now available for just $2,875.00 – make this piece of history part of your story today.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Joe’s Special Box Luxury Edition – Volume 28

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and A Collector’s Things

One of the most common questions we get asked is…  “Is everything for sale?”.  And the short answer is yes, with one or two exceptions in Joe’s private collection, all of our jewelry is for sale.  The long answer is a bit more detailed… while we are always thrilled to place some of our more collectible pieces, the truth is that we don’t mind if that takes a long time.  It could take years, decades even.  There’s no rhyme or reason to the process of matching treasured antiques with the perfect connoisseur.  Some of our most rare pieces have been here so long, they’re woven into the fiber of the Joden story.  As seasoned employees, each of us have incorporated these gems into our tour of the store.  For those who have visited us, perhaps you’ll recognize this week’s featured brooch.

An image of it hangs on the wall near the case that houses the piece.  It’s even got a nickname (although it’s not as fitting as it could be); it’s been dubbed “the jester”.  At a glance, the subject does bear a slight resemblance to a court jester from the 16th or 17th century.  However, a closer inspection and a bit of research has unearthed clues that hint at the true symbolism layered within this unusual brooch.  Measuring nearly three inches from the top to the bottom, and created from the rich tones of 22-karat gold, the intricate design is quite handsome.  Done in a mixed media style, it features micro mosaic inlay, Etruscan beading and a hair receiver on the back side.  

The center focuses on a figure wearing an elaborate headdress.  This unusual chapeau depicts a pair of colorful birds on either side of a round orb; the cap portion is striped with red, gold and shades of blue.  The raised color of the costume matches the cap in both color and pattern.  Utilizing my amateur detective skills, I eventually landed on pages of Egyptian hieroglyphics and symbols.  Bear in mind that I am more Scooby-Doo than Sherlock Holmes, however, my brief research reveals that the configuration on this headdress could be the Egyptian Winged Sun.  It is one of the oldest Egyptian symbols; it represents divinity, royalty and power.  The micro mosaic work is nothing short of spectacular.  The impossibly tiny pieces, called tesserae, have been inlaid with little to no gaps between them.  Even now, more than a hundred years later, the colors are so vibrant.  Several different tones were used to create the contours of the face making it appear three dimensional.

Surrounding the center plaque is an ornamental frame – each segment filled with additional symbolic details.  At the very top are two characters; the one on the left appears to be the Feather of Ma’at and the one on the right just might be the Sa (a symbol of protection).  The Feather of Ma’at represents truth, justice and balance while the Sa was believed to provide safety and well-being for the living and the dead.  Moving down the brooch, the next symbols are an inverse pair of coiled serpents.  Vivid green in hue, the snake can be positive or negative.  Uraeus was a symbol of power for the pharaohs while Apopis represented chaos and the forces of darkness.  There’s no way to ascertain what these two serpents might represent – conjecture is all we have.

Additional figures decorate three of the remaining portions of the brooch.  I have not yet been able to discern anything about the symbolism behind the figures – perhaps one of you will be able to offer some insight!  Most micro mosaics were Italian in origin.  This remarkable creation dates back to the late 19th century or early 20th century.  The style is Egyptian Revival.  Artists were inspired by decryption of the Rosetta stone, the opening of the Suez Canal and eventually, the discovery of King Tut’s tomb.  The influence continued on into the start of WWII.  The condition of the brooch is excellent and it’s quite wearable.  A shepherd’s hook on the back side would allow the piece to be worn as a pendant as well as a brooch.  It’s been a treasured part of our inventory for many years, priced at $11,375.00.  Today, we are offering a small discount; click over to our site where this piece of history is available for just $10,000.00.  

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

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