Pietra dura Archive

Mosaic Masterpiece

July 11, 2025 by Joden Girl

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Intricate Things

There’s no question that right now, in the jewelry world, we are doing more buying than selling. With gold prices soaring to higher heights by the day, everyone wants to cash in. In every estate or lot we see, there is one common denominator – a strand or two of pearls. Some strands are costume, some are freshwater and some are cultured. Pearls come in every size, shape and color. Our inventory has at least two hundred strands of assorted pearls. They’re classic and timeless; we avidly encourage sellers to hang on to the pearls. They don’t bring much money in the second hand market, but are sure to be worn and treasured by someone in the family.

Pearls are often combined with other gemstones or incorporated into a design. This bracelet is an ideal example. Perfectly matched and measuring just over 7mm each, these ninety pearls are round in shape with clean surfaces and a wonderfully pinkish luster. Not costume or freshwater, these pearls are cultured. Here, in the bracelet, they’re simply a vehicle for the true artistry of the piece… the clasp. Made from 20-karat yellow gold and measuring two inches tall by 1.75 inches wide, it looks very much like a picture frame. The border is a decorative series of swirls and whorls of high-karat gold bordering a precise rectangular opening.

Displayed in the frame is a lovely floral portrait. A white lily stands in stark contrast to the deeply saturated black background. The surface is silky smooth, without a single seam or crevice to reveal that this intricate work is a mosaic! Called Pietra Dura (which means hard stone in Italian), this technique showcases meticulously sawn fragments of opaque polished gems that have been fitted together like pieces of a puzzle. This artform was quite popular during the Renaissance and experienced a revival in the 19th century. My favorite detail is the tiny butterfly that hovers over a flower petal. Bringing a bold pop of color to the otherwise muted scene, this creature boasts agate, malachite and a sliver of something that just might be dalmatian jasper. Other common choices of gemstones for Pietra Dura designs were onyx, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and marble.

Shown on the wrist, you can truly appreciate the size of this antique beauty. Bringing together the timeless elegance of pearls with the alluring artistry of mosaic, this bracelet has an air of sophistication and style that cannot be denied. Moderately priced at $2,780.00, this is a piece that will be handed down in your family for generations yet to come.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

This or That – Volume 12

May 17, 2024 by Joden Girl

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Inlaid Things

By definition, inlaid means “ornamented with embedded pieces of a decorative material flush with the surface”. This process dates back to the 1600’s and has been practiced for hundreds of years. The art originated in Florence, Italy. The craft itself was utilized to decorate architectural structures like doors and windows as well as ornamental pieces like furniture, fountains and sculptures.

Inlaid jewelry experienced a revival in the 19th century. The style became known as Pietra Dura (which means hard stone in Italian). Taking cues from Commesso mosaic work, Pietra Dura focused on fashioning pictures from carefully sawn pieces of semi-precious gemstones and fitting them together like a jigsaw puzzle. Typically floral in nature, they were usually constructed on a green, white or black base. Not to be confused with micro-mosaic, Pietra Dura is a refined process that employs larger hand-cut bits of beautifully colored stones like agate, jasper, lapis, jade, malachite, onyx, quartz and alabaster.

This brooch from the late 1800’s features an oval piece of black slate encapsulated by a simple 14-karat yellow gold frame. Showcasing a pair of orange five-petaled blossoms with a sprig of blue buds, this botanical brooch measures approximately 1.75 inches by 1.5 inches.

Shown from behind, you can see a small round ring that is hinged at the base. This tiny loop allows the brooch to be worn on a chain as a pendant. It is thoughtfully hidden away when the piece is used as a pin. Available in our store, this lovely piece of inlaid jewelry is priced at just $585.00.

In the mid-twentieth century, two men formed a partnership and created what is now considered to be the finest inlaid modern gold jewelry. Their names were Jerome Grossbardt and Larry Asch. Together, they became Asch-Grossbardt.

Recognized for exquisite color combinations and whimsical designs, the Asch-Grossbardt legacy is filled with miniature masterpieces. That turtle pictured above is one of my favorites. He’s just a little fellow, measuring 1.25 inches from the top of his head to the tip of his tail. His wide set eyes are marked by a matched pair of round coral beads. His shell is where the magic happens… nine individual scales have been hand-cut from a combination of lapis, malachite, onyx, mother-of-pearl and coral. These meticulously cut gems are set and then the finished product is lapped on a wheel until the surface is silky smooth.

Every Asch-Grossbardt design is original and copyrighted, a fact which makes them highly collectible. Our adorable turtle is priced at just $480!

Pictured together, both pieces are made from 14-karat yellow gold. Both of them also features an inlaid pattern showcasing a similar color palette of hand-cut semi-precious gemstones. We can’t help but wonder… which would you choose? This antique Pietra Dura flower brooch or that Asch-Grossbardt turtle? This or that?

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Enigmatologist Ecstasy

June 2, 2020March 20, 2019 by Joden Girl

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Hard Stone Things

Pietra Dura – these Italian words mean “hard stone”… and that is precisely what these beauties are. Crafted in the late 1800’s with a matte black background and inlaid with elaborate interlocking pieces of semi precious stones, each one of these brooches is a masterpiece.

They are miniature puzzles, with precisely cut slices of agate, lapis lazuli, jasper, and chalcedony artfully arranged to create budding and fully bloomed floral majesty. Artisans hand-cut and polished every single piece of stone to align perfectly with the next. This decorative art form originated in Rome in the 1600’s but didn’t realize it’s full glory until two centuries later in Florence.

Many Pietra Dura pieces were sold as souvenirs once travel and touristy become popular at the end of the Victorian era. Whether worn on a black velvet ribbon or pinned to a high-necked collar, women were crazy for these mosaic gems. Romantic details like twisted rope borders and seed pearl trim were added to the golden frames to enhance their appeal.

A delicate pattern of tiny three-dimensional leaves and coiled wire stems encircle the border of this demi-parure. It sits on a luxurious bed of rich red velvet, violet silk, and burnt orange leather – the principle ingredients of the original fitted case. This suite is comprised of a large brooch and a pair of dangle earrings. Pink, blue, and white blossoms burst from the black marble plaques. It’s truly remarkable and utterly feminine in the best possible way.

You don’t have to go to Italy to see these charmers. You simply must come to Joden and discover this historical art form for yourself.

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Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Baubles, Bling and Intricate Things

Baubles, Bling and Inlaid Things

Baubles, Bling, and Hard Stone Things

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