Joden Girl
Baubles, Bling and A Collector’s Things
After more than twenty years in the jewelry business, there aren’t a lot of pieces that truly inspire me. There are endless pretty things, lots of interesting techniques and styles. Our cases are positively overflowing with gems and jewels of every size, shape and color. Each one is a bit different than the last… but, breath-taking? Awe-inspiring? That’s rare.
This year, three generations of Murawski men went to the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show. Joe, Jay, and Nick spent two days searching every nook and cranny of each booth for the very best the show had to offer and found this epic beauty. Made during the second half of the 19th century, this high-karat gold pendant is extraordinary. Reviving ancient techniques like granulation, filigree and intricate goldwork, this masterpiece was made by the one and only John Brogden.
Synonymous with innovation and unparalleled craftsmanship, Brogden’s work displayed not merely one technique, but rather endless combinations of meticulous detailing. His efforts were often rewarded, including a prestigious gold medal at the 1867 Paris Exposition Universelle. He was a legacy to the master jeweler trade – his family had been in the industry since the early 1700’s.
This piece centers on an oval pink tourmaline that weighs approximately 4.00 carats. Perfectly matched, a halo of twenty rose cut diamonds encircle the bright fuchsia gem. A recessed frame envelops the gem-set center; it’s painstakingly embellished with a row of forty black enameled lines. The Etruscan influence is shown in the half-circle crown at the top while Renaissance inspiration flows through the leafy garland that wreaths the lower portion.
An unused hair receiver fills the back side, while a fan of five individual fringes sways beneath the “JB” signature. The chain is period-appropriate and the tone of the 22-karat links perfectly matches the high-karat gold of the pendant, it is not original. We hand-selected it from our own cache of antique chains in order to properly exhibit Brogden’s work.
Rare and exceedingly beautiful, this pendant is wearable art. It’s not overly formal, nor is it so pricey that you would be uncomfortable while wearing it. John Brogden was a contemporary of both Castellani and Giuliano; the famed Mrs. Newman was his designer until his death in 1884 and learned the craft from Brogden himself. Collectors and true connoisseurs seek out his works. In fact, many of Brogden’s pieces are housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Perhaps you’ve always wanted an important piece; this is your sign. If you are as captivated by this antique showstopper as we are, it’s available for $14,250.00 – an investment worthy of any collector.
“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”
Written by Carrie Martin
Photos by Dana Jerpe
