Nuances of Nouveau

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Rejuvenating Things

Art Nouveau has often been described as a celebration of the woman in nature.  It is an unmistakable style noted by long flowing lines (often referred to as whiplash lines).  The curvaceous female form with flowing locks of hair was perhaps the most obvious use of these sinewy shapes. 

 

Popular from 1890-1910, Art Nouveau jewelry was predominantly yellow gold featuring multicolored enamel; anything from a subtle pink blush to a bright and bold kaleidoscope explosion of hues.  At first glance, I thought this dazzling cuff was an original antique example.  However, closer inspection revealed that it was actually a revival, a reawakening.

A series of hallmarks sit center stage in a vertical line atop the hinge..  there are seven in all:

D   L   W   R   18K   78   1/1

The 18K is self-explanatory – this beauty is completely constructed from a rich 18 karat yellow gold.  I believe the 78 indicates that the bracelet was made in 1978 while the 1/1 most likely reveals that this remarkable piece is the only one ever made.  I have exhausted myself trying to uncover what those letters might mean…  to no avail.  The most sensible answer is that these represent the artist and perhaps the recipient.  

Lustrous cobalt blue enamel covers the entire inside of the cuff while the edges present an irregular scalloped pattern with an underlying peep of gold showing through.  Flanking the hinge are six abstract birds, each with a singular diamond burnished within.  The two bodies stretch out at leisure…  one seeming to bask in the light of the summer sun while the other appears to bathe in silvery moonlight.  Turning the bracelet over reveals my favorite detail, these clasped hands.  

Priced at $7,900, this bracelet is unique.  It’s a statement piece, making a bold declaration on the wrist of the wearer.  Joden is known for jewelry of distinction.  Don’t just take my word for it, come see for yourself. 

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Joe’s Special Box – Volume 74

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and A Collector’s Things

From 1890-1910, the world of jewelry underwent a huge transformation.  Splashy diamond pieces were left by the wayside in favor of a stylistic revolution inspired by nature, sinuous curving lines, lush organics and the female form.  Artisans sought to showcase their technical talents and craftsmanship with completely handmade miniature works of art. 

Subtle beauty was created using multi-color enamel.  Layers of color blended together to bring flowers and leaves to life.  This stunning pendant is an excellent example of Art Nouveau style.  The base of the piece was crafted utilizing a series of interlocking vines, two iridescent natural pearls have been added to form the flower blossoms.  Each of the nine leaves have been enhanced with a pastel palette of pink, green, and yellow tones.  In pristine condition, this gem is part of Joe’s private collection and resides in his special box.  Moderately priced at $3,200, it’s available now.  

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to Joden and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Masriera Masterpieces

Joden Girl

Dragonflies, Florals and Earthly Things

“Every piece that comes out of workshops is intended to be an artistic expression stemming from the essence of our culture.

A culture with the Mediterranean as its backdrop. We seek perfection in everything we do and create our pieces, always under the rubric of their contemporary style. A philosophy borne out of our workshops, passed down from generation to generation that has continued up until today.”

These words have been taken directly from the Masriera site and highlight all that is desirable about their extraordinary jewels.  The name “Masriera” has become synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship and breathtaking creations that harken back to the late 19th century when Art Nouveau style reigned supreme.

One of the shorter periods in jewelry history, Art Nouveau began around 1890 and continued on for the next twenty years.  It was a celebration of the female form and all things found in nature – flowers, vines, insects, serpents, and leaves.  High karat yellow gold with a matte finish was often the backdrop for multicolored enamels, giving the pieces lifelike appeal.  Rene Lalique, Louis Comfort Tiffany, and Lluis Masriera were connoisseurs of the craft.

At Joden, we have a handful of these whimsical wonders.  I love the delicacy of this sweet bee ring.  A rich purple amethyst and a tiny diamond make up the body of the insect while the wings are made from black and opalescent white plique a jour enameling.  It sits perfectly on the finger…  now just $1000.

The next tempting treat is a pendant/brooch combination.  A brightly colored dragonfly sips the nectar from the lotus blossom…  simply charming!  The chain is easily removed from the piece to convert it to a brooch.  This engaging enchantress is available on our site – $5000.

Finally, we have my favorite piece – a daisy chain style bracelet.  The buttery 18 karat yellow gold has a wonderful bisque finish that is the perfect compliment to the pastel colored enamel of each flower…  yellow, lavender, pink, and blue.  Each of the seventeen blossoms has a round brilliant diamond center.  It’s a happy bracelet – I smile every time I look at it.  Please call for additional details.

In the hustle and bustle of today’s world, it’s rare to find a company that honors their old world heritage with superior craftsmanship and a faithful expression of quality.  Over 178 years later, and Masriera is still doing it right.

Each piece is individually numbered and is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity and the original trademarked Masriera packaging.

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Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Shelly Isacco