Signature Series – Volume 7

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Quality Things

They say lightening doesn’t strike the same place twice…  based on recently discovered evidence, I beg to differ.  Nearly three years ago, I shared a magnificent malachite butterfly brooch (pictured below) – I was struck by the graceful lines and bold colors.  Titled “Take Flight,” that blog detailed every little thing about the pin from the tip of each contoured wing to the base of the diamond-studded body.  Perhaps the single most important feature was the unmistakable symbol emblazoned on the back.  It was an east/west oriented diamond shape with the letters HR engraved inside.  These initials stood for Herbert Rosenthal – an iconic Mid Century Modern jewelry designer famous for his charming diamond and ruby bee brooches.  These dainty darlings quickly became the must-have item of the 1960’s and 1970’s – Rosenthal even became the exclusive designer of bee pins for Tiffany & Co.  

Butterflies have long been a symbol of resurrection and rebirth – a perfect choice to celebrate Spring.  The collection at Joden boasts dozens of these winged creatures – from ordinary to extraordinary, each one special in their own rite.  About once a month, I spend a day seeking out new blog-worthy pieces.  Digging through boxes, peeking in the showcases – I strive to see each jewel with fresh eyes… like I’m seeing it for the very first time.  Pieces are chosen based on rarity, current trends, value – sometimes I select a piece because it’s ugly!  Anything that triggers an emotional response is a deserving candidate.  Sometimes, I can’t pinpoint the exact reason I chose an item…  it just has that special something.

That’s how it began with this butterfly…  I couldn’t put my finger on why I was drawn to it.  We keep each piece of jewelry at Joden in a small plastic bag.  On the outside of the bag, we list pertinent details about it.  Viewed while still inside the plastic bag, this brooch is lovely.  It’s colorful with a shapely outline.  It wasn’t until I held it in my hand that I could feel the quality.  The moment I picked it up, I felt each wing move.  The brooch is articulated and moves with lifelike grace.  It’s quite remarkable.  

The frame of the butterfly is sculpted from both 18-karat yellow gold and 18-karat white gold.  Nearly every surface glitters with sparkling gems.  Five opals of both oval and pear shapes mark the middle of the body and the center of each wing.  Surrounding those fiery gems are eight emeralds that weigh .65 carat, ten rubies that weigh 1.00 carat and four sapphires that weigh .40 carat.  Outlining each wing and completing the body are sixty-four round brilliant diamonds that have a total weight of 1.50 carats.  Every single stone is fine in both cut and color.  

I always look for makers marks – I love finding them, deciphering and analyzing each one.  Like an exceptional painting signed by the artist, fine jewelry is also often signed by its maker.  Because this butterfly is so meticulously made, I was certain there must be some kind of hallmark.  Sure enough, underneath the pin stem of this soaring sorceress are two crisp marks; there is an 18K accompanied by an HR inside a sideways diamond – the mark of Herbert Rosenthal.  My detective work has paid off!  Lightening can, in fact, strike the in the same place twice.   For the second time in less than three years, we have a signed Herbert Rosenthal butterfly.  Although the malachite brooch sold, this stellar example is available in our showroom for just $2,050.00.  Call today to make it yours.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpre

Take Flight

 Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Flying Things

Bees.  Everyone knows about the Rosenthal bees.  These clever little golden darlings were created in the 1960s and 1970s by Herbert Rosenthal.  They were crafted in a wide variety of sizes and each one was set with fine gemstones of every color.  There were diamond bees, sapphire bees, ruby bees…  I’ve even seen one with an opal body.  So popular were these stingers that jewelers everywhere tried their hand at a copycat model.  Even though Rosenthal had secured a patent on his original design, when he attempted to sue those who had stolen his craft – he ultimately lost the fight.  But did he really?  Or was it the very thing that clinched the highly collectible nature of a true Rosenthal bee?  

In the past few weeks, Joden has been buzzing with chatter about these flying insects.  I blogged about them before in Queen Bee; a few of you discovered that archive recently and reached out in search of a bee of your own.  At the moment – we are sold out of bees.  But imagine my delight when I found this gem!

This colorful beauty has been part of the Joden inventory for a bit – and recently, I selected it for Joden Girl.  With wings made of superbly striated malachite and a cabochon pink coral body, this butterfly exudes happiness.  A series of diamonds decorate the edges of the wings, the lower portion of the body and each antennae for a combined total of 1.00 carat.  All of this is enclosed within an 18 karat yellow gold frame. 

I pride myself on the research I put into each blog.  I love digging for quirky, unusual jewels.  I spend hours searching for relevant history and symbolism.  With my loupe in hand, I scour every nook and cranny of my chosen piece so that I can share it all with you.  Today, I flipped this butterfly over and there it was!  Right before my very eyes, something I had never noticed before.  Carefully etched into a small golden strap on the back of the coral are two marks…  one is “18K” and the other is an east/west diamond shape with two letters inside…  HR.  Herbert Rosenthal!

We may not have any Rosenthal bees in our hive, but we’ve uncovered a gem that’s just as good, maybe even better – a Rosenthal butterfly.  Sometimes the inventory at Joden even takes us by surprise!  Fly away with this stunning brooch for just $3,250.00.  

“Go to our site and look, then come to Joden and touch”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Bring Back the Brooch

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, Pins and Things

Over twenty-eight thousand posts can’t be wrong.  There’s a movement happening on Instagram… #bringbackthebrooch.  There is no other piece of jewelry as versatile.  There are countless ways to sport your favorite pins.  I am dedicating this week’s blog to some of our favorites!

Luxurious satin, plush velvet, or even a playful pattern – take a length of ribbon and tie a fabulous oversize bow around your wrist.  Adorn it with something sparkly, like this stunning Victorian butterfly.  This silver on gold beauty glistens with over a carat of rose cut diamonds.  Each wing centers on an old cut brilliant blue sapphire.  Add in a cabochon opal body and a pair of ruby eyes and this look will have heads snapping!  Take this winged creature home for $3,750.00.

Wrists aren’t the only place to tie a bow…  ankles are fair game and oh-so-sexy.  Create your own ankle strap with a bit of black grosgrain ribbon.  This diamond daisy brooch adds a splash of vintage glam.

 

You can call it late Georgian or early Victorian…  I call it gorgeous.  You know I’m a sucker for flower jewels (this one is available for $3,500.00) and this little bauble is no exception.  Every petal is covered with a glorious patina – the perfect contrast to the bright white diamonds.  Over two carats that sparkle and shine with every step – imagine making a fashion statement like this on the dance floor!  

If bows aren’t your thing – check out our twist on an old favorite.  This woven choker is a must for every jewelry wardrobe.  Wear it alone or jazz it up with a brooch or two.  Dig into those jewelry boxes, find your brooches!  Pin them to your collar, lapels and ties.  Add them to your cuffs, straps, and waistbands.  Join the movement and bring back the brooch!  

Send pictures of your favorite brooches and how you wear them to carrie@joden.com.  Inspire me!

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos (and those great legs) by Dana Jerpe

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