Joden Girl
Baubles, Bling and A Collector’s Things
One of the most common questions we get asked is… “Is everything for sale?”. And the short answer is yes, with one or two exceptions in Joe’s private collection, all of our jewelry is for sale. The long answer is a bit more detailed… while we are always thrilled to place some of our more collectible pieces, the truth is that we don’t mind if that takes a long time. It could take years, decades even. There’s no rhyme or reason to the process of matching treasured antiques with the perfect connoisseur. Some of our most rare pieces have been here so long, they’re woven into the fiber of the Joden story. As seasoned employees, each of us have incorporated these gems into our tour of the store. For those who have visited us, perhaps you’ll recognize this week’s featured brooch.
An image of it hangs on the wall near the case that houses the piece. It’s even got a nickname (although it’s not as fitting as it could be); it’s been dubbed “the jester”. At a glance, the subject does bear a slight resemblance to a court jester from the 16th or 17th century. However, a closer inspection and a bit of research has unearthed clues that hint at the true symbolism layered within this unusual brooch. Measuring nearly three inches from the top to the bottom, and created from the rich tones of 22-karat gold, the intricate design is quite handsome. Done in a mixed media style, it features micro mosaic inlay, Etruscan beading and a hair receiver on the back side.
The center focuses on a figure wearing an elaborate headdress. This unusual chapeau depicts a pair of colorful birds on either side of a round orb; the cap portion is striped with red, gold and shades of blue. The raised color of the costume matches the cap in both color and pattern. Utilizing my amateur detective skills, I eventually landed on pages of Egyptian hieroglyphics and symbols. Bear in mind that I am more Scooby-Doo than Sherlock Holmes, however, my brief research reveals that the configuration on this headdress could be the Egyptian Winged Sun. It is one of the oldest Egyptian symbols; it represents divinity, royalty and power. The micro mosaic work is nothing short of spectacular. The impossibly tiny pieces, called tesserae, have been inlaid with little to no gaps between them. Even now, more than a hundred years later, the colors are so vibrant. Several different tones were used to create the contours of the face making it appear three dimensional.
Surrounding the center plaque is an ornamental frame – each segment filled with additional symbolic details. At the very top are two characters; the one on the left appears to be the Feather of Ma’at and the one on the right just might be the Sa (a symbol of protection). The Feather of Ma’at represents truth, justice and balance while the Sa was believed to provide safety and well-being for the living and the dead. Moving down the brooch, the next symbols are an inverse pair of coiled serpents. Vivid green in hue, the snake can be positive or negative. Uraeus was a symbol of power for the pharaohs while Apopis represented chaos and the forces of darkness. There’s no way to ascertain what these two serpents might represent – conjecture is all we have.
Additional figures decorate three of the remaining portions of the brooch. I have not yet been able to discern anything about the symbolism behind the figures – perhaps one of you will be able to offer some insight! Most micro mosaics were Italian in origin. This remarkable creation dates back to the late 19th century or early 20th century. The style is Egyptian Revival. Artists were inspired by decryption of the Rosetta stone, the opening of the Suez Canal and eventually, the discovery of King Tut’s tomb. The influence continued on into the start of WWII. The condition of the brooch is excellent and it’s quite wearable. A shepherd’s hook on the back side would allow the piece to be worn as a pendant as well as a brooch. It’s been a treasured part of our inventory for many years, priced at $11,375.00. Today, we are offering a small discount; click over to our site where this piece of history is available for just $10,000.00.
“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”
Written by Carrie Martin
Photos by Dana Jerpe
